The Reformation Upheaval: 1514-1567

Illustration: Detail of John Knox statue in St Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh.

The Reformation Upheaval: Overview

Over hundreds of years the Roman Catholic faith had consolidated itself as the dominant religion throughout Europe. Yet by the early sixteenth century all was not well. Widespread corruption in the church fostered disillusion and it was obvious that reform was long overdue. When it came the fallout was often violent and bloody as reformers struggled for power with defenders of the old faith. Scotland, too, was convulsed for generations by the Reformation Upheaval. What finally emerged at the end of it was a nation with a new set of religious beliefs and institutions, but which also preserved and built upon some of the more timeless ideals of its past.

 

Historic Voices

"There are two Kings and two Kingdoms in Scotland. There is Christ Jesus the King and His Kingdom whose subject James VI is, and of which he is not a king, nor a Lord, nor a head, but a member."

   The doctrine of "Two Kingdoms" as formulated by Andrew Melville. This precept, that the Scottish church should be free and independent of interference from monarch and state, would become one of the foundation stones of post-Reformation Scotland. So emotive was this principle that subsequent generations of Scots would fight each other to the death either to uphold or overthrow it.

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The Reformation Upheaval: 1514-1567

Background: The Protestant Reformation In Europe

By the beginning of the sixteenth century the Christianity of Roman Catholicism had become the religious belief of millions throughout Western Europe. This process had taken hundreds of years during which time the church had developed an elaborate administrative organisation. This enabled it to wield enormous political power and play an active part alongside monarchs in the government of kingdoms.

The medieval Roman Catholic church was essentially an empire; and empires are expensive to build and maintain. The church's main source of income came from taxing those who lived and worked on church lands. In theory, these taxes were intended to pay the clergy and to finance religious work; in practice, this was now rarely the case. Far too much wealth was going amiss, usually transferred up from the bottom of the system and into the coffers of those at the top. Whilst money was lavished on elaborate cathedral building projects for the church hierarchy (not to mention other far less elevated activities) at a local level parishes were starved of resources. As a result, poorly paid and ill-trained priests neglected their duties, church property fell into disrepair, and corruption proliferated.

Years of endemic corruption fostered cynicism amongst church congregations who now hooted and catcalled throughout what should have been sombre rituals. The people were clearly losing faith in the church; but, crucially, they had not lost faith in God. To the medieval mind God remained very real – and so too did the Hell into which He would cast those who did not find salvation through worship in this life. Where were people to turn for salvation if the church failed them?

This question greatly troubled men of conscience in the church and wider society. From the early sixteenth century onwards there emerged a growing movement openly campaigning for reform. Citing biblical authority, the reformers demanded sweeping theological changes in the church, administrative restructuring to eliminate corruption, and adequate financing for parish priests to minister to their flocks.

This was the Protestant Reformation and it had revolutionary consequences even if revolution was the last thing most reformers intended. Violent conflict and civil war broke out between those who demanded Protestant reforms and those who defended the old Catholic faith. For generations Europe was convulsed by this political and religious struggle. It would change Scotland irreversibly.

Illustration: Early stone cross carving in the National Museum of Scotland.

 

The Reformation Upheaval: 1514-1567

 

Martin Luther and the Origins of the Reformation Upheaval: 1517

In a sense, the Scottish Reformation began not in Scotland but in Germany in October 1517 when an unknown monk called Martin Luther published a protest against corrupt practices in the Catholic church. His actions encouraged others to voice their misgivings. Soon similar ideas were circulating throughout Europe despite desperate efforts to suppress them by church and state leaders who feared this challenge to the existing order. As early as 1523 in Scotland the rector of an Aberdeen school was reprimanded for teaching Luther's ideas, and in 1525 the Scottish parliament was sufficiently alarmed at their proliferation to pass an act banning the import of books advocating them.

The Martyrdom of Patrick Hamilton: 1528

Forbidden fruit is invariably the sweetest and attempts to proscribe the new ideas only increased their appeal. Soon travelling preachers emerged throughout Scotland spreading Protestantism by word of mouth. Prominent amongst these was Patrick Hamilton, a brilliant, earnest young man who studied in Paris before returning to Scotland in 1527 to preach Protestant reform to growing crowds. This religious fervour did not go unnoticed. Persecuted and expelled from the country at one point Hamilton persisted with his preaching until in 1528 he was seized by the authorities and burned as an example to others. The Scottish Protestant reform movement had its first martyr.

A Nation Divided

Government persecution forced the reform movement underground; but it would not go away. Protestant ideas continued to spread and it became increasingly difficult to ignore the fact that Scottish society, like wider Europe, was dividing into Protestant and Catholic factions. The reformers found a sympathetic audience amongst a population fed up with church corruption yet still hungry for spiritual sustenance. Before long some of the nobility also found themselves in sympathy with the Protestant reform movement. Yet progress was far from straightforward. The years after 1530 saw various members of the Scottish ruling class continually switch between supporting and opposing Protestant reform.

Intrigue and Conspiracy

As well as being a time of great religious upheaval the Reformation century was also a period of great political instability in Scotland. This can be traced back to the death of King James V in 1542. When the king died he left as heir to the Scottish throne a daughter, Mary Stuart, destined to become Mary Queen of Scots. Unfortunately, Mary was barely a week old.

As with the Independence Struggle of the thirteenth century, the absence of a strong monarch to impose order led to much squabbling amongst the nobility. Religious division further complicated this already unstable political situation. In the mid sixteenth century it was still far from clear if Scotland would remain Catholic or embrace Protestantism. This political and religious uncertainty was reflected in the endless machinations of the Scottish nobility as they flitted back and forth between Catholicism and Protestantism, from one power group to the next. Sometimes this was due to genuine conviction; more often it was in response to changing circumstances that made it politically and financially advantageous to support first one politico-religious faction and then another.

Scotland in Europe

The religious dispute also placed Scotland centre stage in the wider European political struggles of the age. Throughout this period both religious factions sought support from other countries: Catholics looked to France; Protestant sympathisers to newly-converted England. Meanwhile, throughout Europe  powerful figures observed developments in the remote northern kingdom of Scotland.  In the mid sixteenth century it was still far from clear if Scotland would remain Catholic or embrace Protestantism. In the bitter religious struggle that was convulsing Europe any country that could be won over to either faith could be claimed as a significant victory for the winning side. In this context, even small states like Scotland now assumed an importance in international politics that far exceeded their actual size.

For both the state leaders and the general populace of mid-sixteenth century Scotland this was an era in which they were forced to grapple with unprecedented religious challenges and dangerous political instability: the stakes were high, the plot complicated, the future uncertain. The last thing the Scots needed now was a war with their "Auld Enemy", England. And this was exactly what was about to break out.

Bungled Diplomacy: Scotland and England at War Again: 1543

Across the border, the formidable King Henry VIII was in power. Like most of the medieval English monarchs, he was always alert for any opportunity to bring the unruly Scottish kingdom under greater control. His chance seemed to arrive with the death of James V. In 1543 Henry concluded a deal by which the infant Mary Queen of Scots would marry his son, Edward, and their children would inherit the separate kingdoms of Scotland and England. The Scots convinced themselves that this deal would placate the ambitious Henry VIII and guarantee Scottish independence; the English hoped that it would give them some influence over Scottish affairs.

Too much influence, perhaps? The ink had scarcely dried on the Treaty before the Scots, belatedly waking up to the possible long-term consequences, repudiated it. This was shoddy diplomacy by any standards. To a man like Henry VIII, unused to being denied his own way, it was an outrage.

His response was characteristically savage. He commanded his armies to invade the northern kingdom. If he could not control Scotland through diplomacy, he would do so by force. The Rough Wooings had begun.

The Rough Wooings: 1543-1551

Between 1543 and 1551 English forces pillaged and devastated the Scottish borderlands in a conflict that came to be known as the Rough Wooings. The borders of Scotland are still littered with ruined abbeys, crumbling testament to this prolonged and ferocious assault. This was a merciless conflict by any standards. Henry VIII's direct orders to his generals have survived and even in a modern era which has witnessed some of the worst atrocities in human history they make chilling reading:

"Beat down and overthrow the Castle, sack Holyrood House and as many towns and villages about Edinburgh as you may conveniently do. Light and burn and subvert it and all the rest, putting man, woman and child to fire and sword without exception where any resistance is made against you."

The Scots fought back but by 1548 it was obvious that they could not win the war alone. Desperate for support, the Scots invoked the "Auld Alliance" and appealed to the French for help. A deal was hammered out: France would send troops to help the Scots defeat the English; in return the Scots agreed to send their child Queen Mary to France to be married to the French king's son. In June 1548 French troops landed in Scotland and over the next two years the French and Scottish armies drove the English out.

By 1551 Henry VIII was dead and the Rough Wooings had died with him. An uneasy peace existed between England and Scotland once again, but the conflict had poisoned Anglo-Scottish relations. There was another significant legacy of the Rough Wooings: a strong French presence in Scotland. The political circumstances now favoured a pro-French Catholic figurehead: Mary of Guise.

Mary of Guise and the French Connection: 1554-1560

Mary of Guise was the French-born widow of James V and the mother of Mary Queen of Scots. A formidable political strategist and a devout Catholic she was strongly opposed to Protestant reform and worked hard to maintain Scotland's long-standing connections with France. In the years after James' death she had struggled with Scotland's other prominent nobles to maintain her power and position but had often found herself sidelined. But now, with a strong French military and political presence in Scotland, and with most of her rivals discredited by their part in the debacle of the Rough Wooings, her moment had arrived. By 1554 she had manoeuvred herself  into power and would rule Scotland for the next six years.

 

John Knox 1514-1572

"What I have been to my country, albeit this unthankful age will not know, yet the ages to come will be compelled to bear witness to the truth."

John Knox, attributed to him in old age.

No other figure has come to be so closely identified with the Scottish Reformation as John Knox. Born into a farming family in Haddington in 1514, Knox trained as a priest before adopting Protestant ideas. His earthy roots gave him an instinctive empathy with the common people of Scotland over whom he would come to wield enormous influence.

Knox first came to prominence in 1546 during the siege of St Andrew's when a group of Scottish nobles burst into the castle and murdered the ambitious, corrupt and thoroughly unpopular Catholic Chancellor of Scotland, David Beaton. They hoped that this would provoke a rising by their Protestant brethren in both Scotland and England which they would then follow with a seizure of power. They were to be disappointed. When Scottish uprising and English troops failed to materialise revolution turned to farce and the would-be insurgents were forced to barricade themselves into the castle. During the siege which followed they were joined by numerous Protestant sympathisers including Knox.

The lengthy 14 month siege eventually ended in abject surrender after St Andrew's castle was bombarded by Scots and French troops. Knox paid heavily for his part in the St Andrews debacle, spending more than year and a half as a galley slave in a French ship followed by several years in exile. Yet he would return 10 years later to take part in the successful rebellion of the Lords of the Congregation. After the Reformation in 1560 he played an important role in structuring the reformed Scottish church and with time he became something like the spiritual leader of Scottish Protestantism.

 Once revered as an iconic Scottish figurehead, Knox's reputation has declined somewhat over recent years: our increasingly secular age does not feel comfortable with the bitter religious disputes of the sixteenth century. Yet Knox remains one of the most significant figures in Scottish history. His likeness, if not his reputation, is solidly preserved in this striking monument in his old church of St Giles in Edinburgh.

Occupation and Unrest

Whilst Mary's tenacity earned widespread respect amongst the Scottish nobility and general populace, her policies incurred their ire. She gave powerful positions in government to Frenchmen causing widespread resentment amongst Scots nobles; and she introduced new taxes, a sure-fire way for any leader in any era to make themselves unpopular with the people.

The French military presence was also becoming a source of tension. Welcomed during the Rough Wooings, the French troops were now viewed with increasing hostility by the Scots: the army of liberation had become an army of occupation. The pro-French, pro-Catholic rule of Mary of Guise was becoming tainted by association. This only strengthened the hand of the Protestant faction and their ever more strident assertion that only Protestant reforms could now prevent Scotland from being turned into a Catholic French satellite state. Sensing the growing unrest in the country, the Protestant faction sought once again to seize power, this time under the Lords of the Congregation.

Scotland on the Brink of Catastrophe

In December 1557 a handful of Scots nobles formed an alliance called the Lords of the Congregation with the avowed aim of promoting Protestant church reforms in Scotland. By 1559 their support had grown. Civil disturbances and riots increased, often as a result of rabble-rousing sermons from the uncompromising Protestant demagogue John Knox. A somewhat makeshift Army of the Lords of the Congregation formed which then declared its intention of deposing Mary of Guise. She responded by bringing several thousand extra French troops into Scotland to reinforce her own army of Scottish sympathisers.

Across the border the English regarded the massive French presence being built up in the northern kingdom with horror. Here was England's long-feared nightmare scenario coming true: a Scotland under French control and posing a permanent and intolerable threat to the security of the English state. This would have to be stopped - and quickly.

Now, suddenly, the system of alliances that had prevailed in Scotland only a few years previously was turned on its head. By March 1560 the English troops that had devastated Scotland during the Rough Wooings had been welcomed back to fight alongside the Scots Congregation army in a desperate war to eject Scotland's former allies, the French. Meanwhile out at sea English ships blocked the supply lines of the French forces. Sporadic fighting broke out throughout the country. Scotland was now on the verge of a catastrophic religious and civil war.

Catastrophe Averted

Then, suddenly, in June 1560, Mary of Guise died. Both sides seized the opportunity to pull back from the brink of a conflict that nobody wanted. A treaty was hastily drawn up between England and France in which both countries agreed to cease hostilities and withdraw their armies from Scotland. As the crisis subsided the nation breathed a sigh of relief and the ruling class convened their parliament. There was still one crucial, outstanding issue from the previous decades that Scotland would have to resolve for itself: what was to be the official religion of the country?

The Reformation Parliament: 1560

What was to become known as the Reformation Parliament met at Holyrood House in Edinburgh with the intention of resolving this question once and for all. The parliamentarians knew that this was a difficult and historic moment: their actions would affect the lives of generations of Scots both Catholic and Protestant right down to the present day. Finally in August 1560 the Scottish parliament that had once banned the import of Lutheran manuscripts voted to adopt the Protestant faith as the official religion of Scotland.

Surely now the religious matter had been settled once and for all? No doubt many Scots hoped so. Instead, the country was about to enter a new phase of religious instability. The cause was the catastrophically ill-timed accession to the throne of a monarch with overt Roman Catholic sympathies: Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots.

 

Mary, Queen of Scots 1542-1587

"In my end is my beginning."

Motto of Mary, Queen of Scots

Easily one of the most celebrated figures in Scottish history, Mary's contemporary popularity stands in stark contrast to the opprobrium she endured during her brief, tumultuous reign, affirming the prescience of her own self-penned motto. This serene representation of Mary in the National Museum of Scotland is a copy of her opulent tomb in Westminster Abbey.

Mary Queen of Scots and John Knox

Mary Stuart was a monarch with little connection to the country she had been born to rule. In 1548, at the age of six, she had been sent to France for her safety whilst the Rough Wooings devastated Scotland. Now, having reached the age of eighteen, the time and circumstances were deemed right for her to take up her rightful position as Queen of Scots.

She returned to a country that had endured much conflict during her absence in the previous twenty years. What Scotland really needed now was a period of peace and stability; but Mary's position as a Catholic monarch in a country newly converted to Protestantism created tensions immediately. Her Catholicism was regarded with immediate suspicion and some hostility by her subjects, although it is possible that with time they might have learned to live with it. However, to the new church hierarchy, and the belligerent John Knox in particular, it was intolerable. At a succession of bad-tempered audiences at Holyrood House the unstoppable force of Knox's reforming Protestant fervour collided head-on with the immovable object of Mary Stuart's deeply-held Catholic faith. Nothing was achieved at these infamous meetings and, unable to convert the young queen to Protestantism, Knox returned fuming to his pulpit at St Giles Cathedral from where he began to preach an endless succession of sermons against her.

The Murder of Lord Darnley: 1567

Knox was a vocal and intransigent enemy, but by now he was advanced in years and his power was waning. The real danger for Mary lay far closer to home. In 1565 she married Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, but the relationship quickly turned sour through a combination of Darnley's self-centredness and treacherous scheming. Darnley revealed his true colours in March 1566 when he attempted to depose her in a court coup. With impressive calm and presence of mind Mary managed to detach Darnley from his co-conspirators and defuse the situation. She spared his life - but she would never forgive him. Neither would his accomplices in the plot, whom he had betrayed and disowned in order to save himself.

Making enemies came naturally to Darnley so it came as no great surprise to many when in January 1567 the house in which he was staying at Kirk O' Field in Edinburgh was blown up. Exactly who was responsible for this spectacular assassination has never been established, not least because the list of people with a motive for killing Darnley was so long. Amongst the main suspects was James Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, an unsavoury Borders strongman. Mary's decision to marry him a mere four months after the death of Darnley was an appalling error of judgement. Many people now jumped to the conclusion that Mary had conspired with Bothwell to assassinate Darnley so that she would be free to marry him.

Mary is Deposed

The murder of Darnley had cast a shadow of suspicion over Mary, but scandals eventually fade in the public mind and, with time, it is likely she would have survived the incident. However her subsequent marriage to Bothwell was a far more serious matter. Marriage to the queen placed Bothwell in a position of exceptional power. The Scottish nobility were horrified at the prospect of being in thrall to a man with an ugly reputation as a political bruiser.

In the circumstances a plot to overthrow Mary and Bothwell was now inevitable and in June 1567 those few forces still loyal to the queen met the army of their opponents at Carberry near Musselburgh. Faced with powerful opposition, Mary's forces deserted, Bothwell fled and Mary was compelled to surrender. She was taken prisoner and moved to the island castle of Lochleven where she was forced to abdicate in favour of her infant son who now became James VI of Scotland.

 

John Knox in suitably messianic pose assails the good burghers of Edinburgh in this impressive stained glass window in St Giles. It was doubtless intended as a tribute to this icon of the Reformation Upheaval, but one suspects that Knox, implacably opposed to any kind of imagery in church, would be aghast.

Mary After Her Abdication

Scotland was now too dangerous for the former queen and Mary was forced into a long exile in England. She was eventually executed there twenty years later after being accused of involvement in a succession of dubious plots to overthrow Queen Elizabeth I of England.

It was a sad end to a tragic life. Mary showed intermittent flashes of dazzling courage and fortitude at critical moments throughout her reign, but she was outdone by two things: her Catholicism, which was unwelcome in a country that had endured years of conflict and civil war to instigate Protestant reforms; and her personally and politically disastrous choice of husbands.

 

Andrew Melville 1545-1622

 Following the death of John Knox in 1572 a new generation of reformers came forward to continue the work of the Scottish Reformation. Amongst them was a young intellectual called Andrew Melville who would soon emerge as the leader of a radical new Melvillian party within the Scottish church.

Melville had studied in St Andrews, Paris and Geneva before returning to Scotland in 1574 to help draw up the Second Book of Discipline, a blueprint for restructuring the Scottish church that both reiterated and expanded upon the principles that had been set out by John Knox in the First Book in 1560. Melville used the Second Book to promote the doctrine of "Two Kingdoms" which argued that the Scottish church should be an entirely self-governing entity free from interference by the monarch or the state.

Melville's strident assertion of this principle put him at odds with James VI who had very different ideas about the relationship between church and state. Melville's infamous dismissal of the monarch as "God's silly vassal" (God's simple servant) only incensed the king further and in 1605 he was ordered to London to explain himself. This final confrontation between James and Melville ended with the obstinate and outspoken preacher being thrown into the Tower of London. Melville languished there for several years before being allowed to spend the remainder of his life in a comfortable but embittered exile in Sedan.

Melville's name is scarcely remembered today outwith the narrow confines of church historians, yet his impact on Scottish history was immense. The historian Peter Hume Brown went so far as to assert that Melville's Second Book was instrumental in "defining the ideas and moulding the temper and culture of  the prevailing majority of the Scottish people. It has been one of the great formative influences in the national development." But Melville's thought cast darker shadows. His doctrine of "Two Kingdoms", a plea for religious freedom, was central to the Covenanter Revolution that bitterly divided the Scottish nation for most of the seventeenth century and played no small part in the bloodshed of the last of the Jacobite Risings as late as 1745.

Nineteenth century Presbyterians would doubtless have preferred Brown's assessment of him. They still thought highly enough of Melville's legacy to erect this striking statue of him in Stirling Valley Cemetery alongside numerous other beautifully crafted monuments to the leading figures of the Scottish Reformation.

The Endless Struggle of the Reformation

Mary's brief reign turned out to be only the first of many complications in the long process of establishing Protestantism in Scotland. After 1567 the Protestant movement set out to change rituals of worship, restructure the church and introduce wider social and educational reforms. All this took many years to consolidate and even then only with mixed success.

Nor did Scotland's Catholics simply vanish overnight. To many Scots the new Protestant church seemed austere and unappealing. When it came to spiritual matters many could not bring themselves to abandon the habits of a lifetime and continued to adhere to Catholicism despite the onerous penalties for doing so. There were many years of violent religious conflict still ahead as Scottish society struggled to reconcile the two faiths. The failure to do so would become a tragic and recurring theme in Scottish history for the next 200 years and beyond.

Illustration: Salem Rock (also known as the Star Pyramid), Stirling Valley Cemetery, built in the mid 19th century as a memorial to the martyrs of the Covenanter Revolution and the Scottish Reformation.

 

 

 

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The Reformation Upheaval

The Historical Legacy

For generations of Scots the year 1560 was quite simply the most important date in Scottish history: a revolutionary "year zero" ushering in a brave new era. Emblematic of this was the Reformed Church of Scotland, an institution which would come to be seen as an iconic Scottish national symbol.

The Scottish church further enhanced its status during the Covenanter Revolution of the following century when it became instrumental in fomenting a national rebellion. In the years after the Treaty of Union with England the church continued to be seen as a uniquely Scottish institution, preserving something of Scotland's autonomy and unique national character within the Union. It has even been suggested that in the absence of a Scottish parliament during the post-Union years, the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland was able to take on a new significance as a forum within which matters of particularly Scottish national interest could be debated. For hundreds of years the Reformation Upheaval came to be seen as a watershed in Scotland's history establishing the Church of Scotland in a central role in national life.

Assessing the historical legacy of the Reformation Upheaval is nowadays far less straightforward. Church attendance has undergone a long, slow decline in our increasingly secular age and the importance of religion in the Scottish national consciousness has declined with it. The Reformation Upheaval still holds importance for historians and academics, but most Scots now prefer to seek inspiration in other episodes from Scotland's past. This is understandable. The patriotic exploits of William Wallace and the Independence Struggle, for example, are still exciting and easy to relate to in ways that the complex world of the Reformation is not. Also, much of the rhetoric of the era has not aged well. What would have sounded to 16th century ears like a passionate appeal to religious and social freedom now sounds rather too much like outright bigotry in the 21st.

The reputation of John Knox has suffered a similar decline in and for similar reasons. For generations he was revered as an iconic Scottish figurehead, but in a modern Scottish society of both marginalised and diversified religious belief it is difficult to find in Knox any kind of contemporary relevance. His defenders, few in number these days, continue to acclaim him as a principled fighter for political and religious freedom who transformed the Scottish nation for the better. His detractors, more prevalent and convincing in a secular age, denounce him as a narrow-minded, hectoring bigot.

   Yet there was far more to Knox and the Scottish Reformation than crude anti-Catholicism. There was always a strong and surprisingly radical element of social and educational reform inherent in the movement; and not far beneath the surface lie themes that are long-running and central to the development of the Scottish nation. In 1561 Knox challenged Mary, Queen of Scots with the near-seditious admonition that monarchs who "exceed their bounds may be resisted - even by power." In doing so he was echoing, whether consciously or not, the principle that had been established in the Declaration of Arbroath nearly 250 years previously: that leaders must be in some way accountable to their subjects and may even be resisted and removed if they fail in their responsibilities towards them. These were dangerous sentiments to mouth during this era, and for a subject to address a monarch in this way was positively suicidal. It is a reflection of Knox's high standing in Scottish society that he was not gibbeted for this insolence. A generation later Andrew Melville would also escape execution, but his doctrine of "Two Kingdoms" with its explicit limitations on monarchical and state power incensed James VI enough to have the intemperate preacher first jailed, then exiled.

It is a curious fact that the most widely recognised figure from this era today - and the one who continues to evoke the greatest sympathy, admiration and respect - is Mary, Queen of Scots. It is deeply ironic that someone who was so divisive in her own time has eclipsed many of the more significant individuals of the age like Knox and  Melville, whose Second Book of Discipline has been described by one historian as "one of the great formative influences in the national development." Yet today Melville is almost forgotten, Knox is reviled and misunderstood and Mary has come to be celebrated as a Scottish national icon. The historical memory can be tricky and unreliable.

There are a few public monuments to Knox in Scotland, most notably an impressive statue on a column towering above Glasgow Necropolis, but for the most part his legacy has been largely ignored. Even his grave has gone unmarked save for a small, un-inscribed yellow square set into the tarmac of a car park in front of Edinburgh's Parliament House. This shoddy treatment of Knox reflects poorly on his homeland, especially when compared with the massive monument to him that adorns the Reformation Wall in Geneva where his legacy continues to be regarded with respect. For all his faults Knox deserves greater recognition in Scotland than he has hitherto had. No doubt it would all prompt the old preacher himself to reflect ruefully upon the old biblical adage that the prophet is never honoured in his own country.

 

 

 

 

 

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Heartland Heritage Sites

The Reformation Upheaval

Find out more about the Reformation Upheaval by visiting the heritage sites featured below.

 

Edinburgh Castle

Towering over the Scottish capital, Edinburgh Castle has long been an internationally recognised icon of Scotland. The Scottish National War Memorial and exhibitions dedicated to Scotland's regiments make the Castle a must-see for anyone interested in military history. Attractions for the less martially-minded include the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, the Great Hall and the ubiquitous Mary Queen of Scots. Some of the greatest dramas in Scottish history have been played out in and around this formidable fortress. Could you really go home after travelling all the way to Scotland and tell everyone you didn't visit Edinburgh Castle?

Websites

www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk  

  www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

 

St Giles Cathedral

Construction of St Giles was begun in the early 12th century with extensive rebuilding continuing down through the centuries to the present day. The impressive crown spire, added in 1500, would still be recognisable to a time -travelling Reformation era churchgoer today. The interior boasts much to see for those interested in Scotland's history and provides a welcome oasis of cool and calm for those wishing to escape the bustle and noise of the Royal Mile on a hot summer day.

Website  www.stgilescathedral.org.uk

 

Stirling Holy Rude Kirk and Cemetery

Stirling's Holy Rude Church and Valley Kirkyard stand in the middle of Stirling just below Stirling Castle. Founded in 1129 the Holy Rude is most remembered today for being the venue in which the infant King James VI received an unassailably Protestant christening officiated over by the redoubtable John Knox. Also of interest is the adjoining cemetery which boasts some striking monuments commemorating notable figures from the Reformation and Covenanting era. This project was the brainchild of William Drummond, a patriarch, entrepreneur and religious polemicist of the kind that only the Victorian age could have produced. The monuments themselves are the work of the nineteenth century sculptor Alexander Ritchie. Similar examples of Ritchie's beautifully-rendered work can still be found throughout the burial grounds of lowland Scotland, testament to the enormous talent of this much neglected figure in Scotland's cultural history. Although somewhat overshadowed by the grander and better-known Stirling Castle both Church and Kirkyard are well worth visiting, particularly for anyone interested in the history of the Reformation and Covenanting era. The site also reveals something of the now-vanished religious and social culture of nineteenth century Scotland at a time when the memory of the struggles of an earlier age were still very much alive in men's minds.

Website

www.holyrude.org

 

John Knox House

There is some uncertainty about whether or not John Knox ever actually lived at this address, but it certainly dates back to the Reformation and now houses a museum dedicated to the sixteenth century religious and social reformer. For better or worse, religious struggle shaped the Scottish nation, and for those interested in finding out how and why this is an excellent place to begin. The bearded figure on the wall, often assumed to be Knox, is in fact Moses. The inscription exhorts the passer-by to “Love God above all and thy neighbour as thyself.”

Website  www.scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk

 

Holyrood House

Holyrood Abbey was founded in 1128 on the spot where, according to legend, King David I beheld a vision of a stag with a cross between its antlers. The old Abbey is now an atmospheric ruin, but sixteenth century Holyrood House remains intact and is still used as a royal palace today. Holyrood is where Mary Queen of Scots conducted her infamously bad-tempered theological disputes with the formidable John Knox and also witnessed the brutal assassination of her companion David Rizzio. A must-see for the many fans of Scotland's most famous queen and anyone with an interest in Scottish history.

Website  www.royal.gov.uk

 

Craigmillar Castle

Craigmillar was founded circa 1400 by the powerful Preston family who doubtless chose this windswept hilltop for strategic military reasons rather than for the panoramic views over Edinburgh which attract visitors today. Another draw for tourists is Craigmillar's association with Mary, Queen of Scots. The young queen was a frequent visitor here, perhaps seeking within its formidable defences a respite from the intrigues around her. Yet even Craigmillar proved vulnerable to the conspiracies of the age: it was within its walls that a cabal of noblemen plotted in 1566 to assassinate Mary's pestiferous husband, Lord Darnley. Although semi-ruined, the castle is still an impressive sight both inside and out. Inevitably overshadowed by its better-known counterpart, "Edinburgh's other castle" still holds much architectural and historical significance and deserves to be better known.

www.craigmillarcastle.com

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

 

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